I visited Hell’s Kitchen (↑), Marafa, a mini ‘grand canyon’ depression of sandstone, comprising dramatic layers of calcium, sulphur and iron. Colours range from whites, pinks, ochres and reds, formed into giant folds, pillars, gorges, pinnacles. I arrived late afternoon to experience the colour changes at sunset. Too hot for much life, I was fascinated by the few trees which hang on by strangely formed roots. Myth tells of a rich selfish family who bathed in milk rather than water, leading to angry gods causing them to be swallowed up. There are many other Giriama stories. I went on a detour expedition to find a couple of rare surviving Giriama grave posts in a dwelling nearby.
I’ve discovered more about the rich variety of Kenyan trees - many have healing properties and are used for timber/ house building poles (often combined with earth, sometimes coral), eg: Mukinduri, Mung’ambo (which I can now pronounce), Neem, Mukula... Encountering trees up close, drawing and making bark rubbings, helped me get to know the trees, and I had encounters with creatures in the process. In one instance, a monkey came to touch my graphite pencil! Visited Gedi ruins, (12th c. Swahili city near Malindi, abandoned aprx 600 years ago, due to plague) once a wealthy trading city, with palace, sultan, governors, and sophisticated water, bathroom and air conditioning systems. Now, the ruins are overgrown with magnificent indigenous forest trees, including ancient baobabs.
I walked around Ndoro Sculpture Garden, a vast private collection of Zimbabwean stone carvings. Owner Carola Rasmussen was welcoming and explained the background of the work - especially one her favourites Bernard Matemera.. Each sculptor has an individual style, not to be copied. The value of these works in the context of African art is significant. The garden is open by appointment. I appreciated Carola’s excellent personal tour.